Installing Windows & Doors on Your Cape Cod Home
I install all my doors level and plumb with lead flashing and caulk underneath. I prefer the Smooth Star fiberglass entrance doors (www.thermatru.com). I shim, screw and plug during the installation in six places; at the hinges and opposite each one. The door sizes, styles, hardware and options are many.
Window replacement has two possible methods. First is the replacement from the inside, also called a sash and balance replacement. If the exterior trim is in good shape this is a viable option. The products I use are custom made to fit your opening from Harvey Building Products (www.harveybp.com). The available products include but are not limited to double hung, casement and picture units. The glazing and grid options vary. The windows can be all vinyl in and out or wood on the inside. The glass should definitely be low E. Check out the Harveys web site for details.
The second option for installation is a full window removal and replacement; also know as new construction set up. I install all my windows level and plumb. I flash with Vycor adhesive membrane wrap (www.graceathome.com) under all windows. I prefer the Andersen Vinyl window (www.andersenwindows.com) for this option. The available products include but are not limited to double hung, casement and picture units. There are numerous product series, glazing configurations, hardware choices and grid options available for these units; so please check out their web site also. I wrap the exterior window flanges with adhesive membrane window wrap (www.graceathome.com) and I caulk along the window before and after I trim. I use a historical sill that I screw and plug in place. The exterior flat stock that I use on the sides and top is 1x5. This is made of pre-primed pine or a flat composite called Azek (www.azek.com). I dado the back of the trim to fit over the flanges and use stainless steel nails as fasteners. Interior trim differs by the house.